Using a Kitchen Compost Bin

The idea of  a kitchen compost bin is simple. Rahter that having to make a trip out to your  outdoor compost pile after every meal. You keep a container inside and consolidate  your multiple trips into one a day or one every other day.
The bin can be kept on the kitchen counter or it can be kept under the kitchen sink to keep it out of sight.  you can use anything from a 5 gallon bucket with lid to a metal coffee can to a gallon plastic Ice cream container. Your bin should be big enough to hold a day’s worth of food waste at least.
When filing your kitchen compost bin you should  make sure you  add some newspaper to the bottom of the container  to absorb excess moisture and when  you empty you container you should be sure to clean you contianer after you empty it in the compost pile outdoors

Choosing a Kitchen compost bin

When choosing your kitchen compost bin you need to decide  on what kind of bin  you want . Most compost bins are made of plastic, pottery(glazed ceramics) or metal. Each material has it own advantages and disadvantages.

The most common kitchen compost bin material is plastic. plastic has several advantages. Plastic compost bins are light weight the come in a variety of colors. they are water proof and contain odor well. They also can come with a variety of useful features such as carbon filters to contrl odor and spigots to drain off excess moisture. The disadvantages of plastic compost containers is they can some times be flimsy with hinges that  break after minimal use and some people find plastic containers unattractive. All in all plastic indoor compost bins are a good choice especially when you consider you can  make your own out old recycled plastic bucket with a lid or large plastic food container very inexpensively.

The next possible choice  for a a kitchen compost container is ceramic  or crockery. This is probably one of he most aesthetically pleasing choices  for a compost pail be cause it will look good right out on the counter. The main disadvantages of this kind of compost crock is  they tend to be heavier then the alternatives making it more of a chore  to carry it out to the compost pile and they tend to be more expensive then plastic containers.

The third option for kitchen compost containers is metal.  Metal compost containers come in a variety of colors as well as stainless steel.  They come with handles and can come with carbon filters and they have the advantage of not cracking or shattering like plastic or cermaic containers can. Metal kitchen compost bins do tend to be expensive but they are a good choice especially if thy match you decor and you are keeping them out on the counter.

Conclusion

Composting your kitchen waste is an excellent way to improve you garden soil but it can have it’s draw backs. theese drawbacks include attracting pest , odors and being unsightly. By using  a kitchen compost bin you can minimize these problems and make the composting process more convenient.

So here in a nutshell is how I make “quick” compost.

I make quick compost by using anaerobic composting.  Using this method I can compost my kitchen waste in about 4 weeks with very little time spent doing it on my part.

The first part of the method involves doing some do it yourself bokashi composting. Bokashi composting is basically a Japanese method of fermenting organic matter aka kitchen waste using a mixture of of partially fermented wheat bran in a closed container with a drain. Over the period of 2 weeks the bacteria breakdown the waste and absorb any odor created in the process. The second part of the process involves burying the bokashi compost in your garden or a larger planter box. Most of the material will be broken down in 2 weeks. Just bury your fermented material under 6 – 8 inches of soil sand nature’s clean-up crew will do the rest.

That it is quick and simple way to compost and enrich your garden soil.

One of the most important advantages of the ebb and flow hydroponic system is it’s resistance to high temperatures. In some hydroponic systems if the nutrient rises above a certain temperature the plant can become more susceptible to disease and root damage due to low oxygen around the roots. The ebb and flow hydroponic method has proven to be capable of sustaining plants even if the nutrient solution gets too warm for other systems. Ebb and flow hydroponics can withstand higher temperatures because the roots are only periodically submerged in nutrient solution.

There are other advantages to ebb and flow hydroponic systems including a simple and easy to understand design, the ability to grow almost any plant and low maintenance. There are however some potential disadvantages to the ebb and flow hydroponics such some commercial systems a can be expensive and too large for home use. Also some designs can be hard expand if you want to increase the size of your system. Still these disadvantages have more to do with implementation of the ebb and flow method than any real shortcoming to ebb and flow hydroponics.

Simple, effective and easy to maintain the ebb and flow method of hydroponics can be an excellent system for both beginning home hydroponics grower and more advanced small commercial grower. If you are thinking of growing a hydroponics garden, you should consider using ebb and flow methods.

In drip systems, the hydroponic fertilizer and water are pumped out of a tank and distributed to drippers at the base of the plants. The drippers supply a controlled amount of nutrient to the plant. Any excess nutrient solution either runs off as waste or is recirculated back to the nutrient reservoir for reuse.

The nutrient can either be circulate constantly or pumped to the dripper at regular interval based on the need of the plants being grown and the media being used. For example, bigger plants need more frequent watering than smaller plants amd plant in a coco peat mixture require less frequent watering than those planted in clay pellets.

The drip system is popular but it does have some disadvantages. The most common problem with drip irrigation systems is that the drippers tend to clog. If a clogged dripper goes unnoticed the plant being grown can be damaged or even killed.

There are several ways to deal with the clogged drip emitter problem. The best defense against clogged drippers is to be sure to filter the nutrient solution going to the dripper. It also helps to have a second dripper on each plant as a back up. Finally, it is always a good idea to check all the emitters periodically and clean or replace any clogged emitters.

The advantages of the dripper hydroponic systems outweigh the disadvantages. The dripper system’s advantages include good resistance to power failure, low water usage and being easily expandable to larger systems.

If you are looking to try hydroponics you should definitely consider setting up a drip system. They are versatile enough to grow just about any kind of plant you have in mind and simple enough for anyone to set up.

Hydroponic methods fall into two basic categories. The first category is the media methods. Media hydroponic methods are hydroponic systems that use an inert media like sand, clay pellets or rockwool to support the plant. The second category of hydroponic methods are the media-less methods which grow the plants using only fertilizer solution around the roots. Whichever hydroponic method you decide to use h the most important thing is you pick a complete fertilizer.

Every plant needs certain elements to sustain healthy growth and to reach maturity. In nature, these elements are supplied by the soil or by man in the form of supplementary fertilizer. In most cases the fertilizer doesn’t contain all 13 elements a plant needs but hydroponics is different.

When plants grow are grown in a hydroponic system, all of the elements have to be supplied by the grower. In the past many technical problems could arise making hydroponic gardening both very labor intensive and costly. Nutrient deficiencies and toxicities surfaced quickly, and frequently, unless the nutrient solution was carefully monitored.

Today things are different there are numerous commercially available hydroponic nutrients, that are specially formulated to be easy to use as well as economical. There are also automatic growing systems like the Aerogarden that make hydroponic gardening simpler. I think it is safe to say that more people are trying hydroponics then ever before.

So the bottom line is that there has never been a better time to try hydroponics. Whether you have a green thumb or the brownest of brown thumbs you can find a hydroponic system that will help you grow healthy plants with a minimum of effort.

Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is is important to plant growth primarily be cause it is a part of the chlorophyll that a green plan uses to make it’s food. It is also part of some important plant enzymes. Without magnesium the plant will be green and sickly.

Sulfur (S)
Sulfur does a lot of important jobs in green plants. It helps build chlorophyll and proteins. Sulfur is also improves root growth and seed production.With out sulfur the whole plant will be yellow and pale and the new leaves will show dead tips.

Iron (Fe)
Iron is essential for the formation of chlorophyll in your plants. Without iron the plant will develop pale leaves with dark green veins.

Copper (Cu)
Copper is inport and for plant reproduction and in the metabolism of the roots. Without copper the leaves of the plant will grow dark and the will often droop or curl up the symptoms appear on the new growth. The new growth will also be stunted.

Manganese (Mn)
Manganese plays a role in plant enzymes. with out manganese the plant grows slowly and the young leaves are pale often with a mottled apearence. In more severe cases the plant may not develop fruit.

Zinc (Zn)
Zinc is part of a lot of plant enzyme reactions and regulates especially having to do with the use of sugar and carbohydrates. Without zine a plant develops yellowing between the veins and stunted new growth with short internodes.

Boron (B)
Boron helps regulate other nutrients and helps the plant make sugar and carbohydrate. Without boron both stem and root growth is poor and seeds and fruit develop poorly.

Molybdenum (Mo)
Molybdenum helps a plant use Nitrogen. Because it plays a role inthe plants use of nitrogen the symptoms of molybdenum deficiency look a lot like nitrogen defiency. with out molybdenum the older leaves yellow and the newer leaves become light green. sometimes the new growth is also distorted.

Chlorine(Cl)
Chlorine takes part in the photosynthesis reaction.Without chlorine the plant will develop chlorosis ( pale space between veins in the leaves) and wilty young leaves. In severe cases the underside of the leaves can develop a bronze look.

There you have it the basic elements  in hydroponic fertilizer. When mixed together with good water they provide all  a plant needs to be healthy fertilizer a plant needs to be healthy.

The macronutrients are the most important nutrients to the health of your plant.The macronutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. They are the NPK you read about on the labels of Hydroponic fertilizer.

Nitrogen(N)
Nitrogen is essential for the healthy leaf growth and is an important part of the chlorophyll that give plants a healthy green color. Without enough nitrogen plant growth slows down and new leaves are stunted and pale.

Phosphorus (p)
Phosphorus is essential for good root growth and flowering and seed production.Phosphorus also is important in plant metabolism. Plants that are not getting enough phosphorus are stunted and may show a purplish coloring to the foliage.

Potassium (K)
Potassium is the 3rd of the big three plant nutrients Sometimes potassium will be called potash. It is used by the plant in a lot of enzymes and to control how water is used in the plant. If a plant isn’t getting enough potassium it will be more sensitive to drought and excess water and to high and low temperatures. Potassium has a huge effect on the quality of the produce your growing and your plants general pest and disease resistance.

Calcium(Ca)
Calcium which is a general considered a secondary macronutrient along with magnesium and sulfur is my candidate for the fourth primary macro nutrient. Calcium plays an important role in nutrient transport the strength of the plant and the quality of the produce. Calcium deficiency result in stunting of the plants growth and weaker plants. But here is a little known factoid, calcium makes up a larger percentage of plant material then potassium. Because calcium makes up such a large percentage of plant material, I consider it the fourth primary macro nutrient.

These four elements form the back bone of any hydroponic fertilizer program. A good quality hydroponic fertilizer will have these 4 ingredients as well as magnesium,and sulfur,the other secondary macronutrients and iron, copper, manganese, zinc, boron, molybdenum and chlorine, the micronutrients. These 13 plant elements are the reason hydroponic nutrient feed plants so effectively.

For me, gardening is fun. It’s art, exercise and home improvement. That, combined with fresh air and sunshine, makes gardening spiritually liberating. So, refusing to be intimidated by my compost pile, I decided to wing it and make up my own rules.

Rule 1: If it’s disgusting, avoid it.

Real garbage such as wizened vegetables, rotten bananas, and forgotten casseroles with weirdly colored stuff growing on it is disgusting. Don’t use it. Besides, it will draw rats. But some household refuse just seems a darn right shame to throw away. You’ve got to admit that coffee grounds, used tea bags and (rinsed off) egg shells aren’t so bad. In they go. Along with hair, whatever you’ve picked up in the vacuum bag (which probably came in from outside anyway), wood shavings and peanut shells.

And there’s more. All that shredded paper you’ve accumulated in an attempt to avoid ID theft makes a nice, fluffy layer. It’s clean and breaks down quickly. Though you should avoid the addition of used Kleenex, toilet paper and greasy paper towels. Once again, adhering to the disgusting rule. Never use glossy magazines. You don’t know what they put in that ink and all those ads are, frankly, disgusting, interfering as they do with a relaxing perusal of your favorite topic and tempting you to spend your hard earned cash.

Let’s move outdoors. Grass clippings are famously pleasant for scent as well as color and if you let your lawn grow out a bit too high, all the easier to rake up, which is good exercise. Grass is a good source of nitrogen but we were not going to get too scientific here.

Dried garden trimmings in the fall produce a nice layer for your compost. Weeds may not be disgusting, but can be annoying – infuriating sometimes, like the ground ivy that keeps creeping over from next door and makes your lawn look disgusting. So it’s ixnay on weeds. The roots and seeds may not break down.

Another sad waste that aggravates me every fall is all those bags of leaves set out on the curb. Simply dump several bags (the more the merrier) in a heap and run the lawn mower back and forth a few times. Piling the leaves near a wall or fence prevents the shredded leaves from blowing all over the place. You may be surprised that such a huge pile, with a few passes of the mower, is rendered to a few buckets full. You may want to procure additional leaves by snatching up other curbside bags. The neighbors will look askance but wait until they see your garden next year!

Now, it may seem obvious, even to the non-agroscientist, that a heap of dried plant material and coffee grounds won’tmagically turn into the rich compost your garden deserves. So let’s move on to

Rule 2. Some things aren’t as disgusting as others.

Manure produces heat and sets certain chemical reactions in motions. That’s all there is to it. If you’ve ever gone to a country fair, you’ notice that area containing cows, chickens, and horses are not as disgusting as pig sties or dog kennels. The excrement of garbage or meat eaters if a definite no-no as is used cat litter.

You can purchase dried manure or you can be thrifty and scout out your own source. While it may seem like a good idea to follow a parade with a bucket and shovel, your family might not appreciate the ride home in the car. Plus, the professionals who perform that task may resent your intrusion.

Nowadays, what with the big Eat Local movement, everybody sooner or later, runs into a farmer. I like fresh eggs so fell into conversation with my egg man, sang high praises of his eggs and the rural life then deftly segued into my desire to procure some nice, fresh chicken poop. The egg farmer was willing to share his bounty. So, one cold February day, I showed up at his beautiful farm with some heavy duty trash bags and attacked the steaming pile.

Rule 3. Layer, aerate and moisten.

It makes the compost so nice. It’s best to layer the ingredients so borrow you mother-in-law’s pitchfork and have at it. Mix that stuff up. Dump a bucket of water to moisten not saturate than wait a week or so and repeat the process.

Bone meal may be added to the mix for phosphorus, good for flowers and fruit. I have not yet figured out a way to dry bones and grind them up but there is a limit to doing things yourself. Now back to Rule 1.

After the compost heap heats up and aerates, notice how it changes. If it begins to smell disgusting, you’re off track. If the odor reminds you of a walk in an autumn woods, or fresh turned earth in spring, then the process is working as well as it would if you actually knew what you were doing!

If you start in autumn or winter and follow these simple procedures, by early spring, you’ll have a nice pile of dark, fluffy compost.